The Comprehensive Aussie Guide to Living in London

A Guide for All of Those Lost Somewhere Between an Education and a Career

 


Weary Australia Day Reveller in London (source TNT Magazine)


Touchdown

Its early September and you epic summer Euro adventure has drawn to a sad and climatic end. Your wallet has tried its best to weather the drunken sieges to its gates, mostly to no avail and what is left lies in ruin and despair. A budget you once were so sure you would stick to, was forgotten several thousand dollars ago. Dull aches come and go as your liver grumbles something about that last night in Ios. Scar tissue lines the outer film of your bloodshot eyes, still recovering from an overload of sightseeing ancient monuments and artefacts. You swear you could pry your eyes out and never sightsee again if that's what it took. Its about this moment when you realise...it's all over. Your Ryanair flight descends water logged with fresh bullets of rain. White cold serious faces pack your sardine can of a flight. Locals roll words off the tongue, you have never heard without an abbreviated 'o' or a 'y' at the end. You look below hoping to catch a glimpse of green grass, but all you can see is a grim, greyish blue cloud as if it were bound to the earth itself. The reality of a situation you have tried to avoid is now upon you, its time to start a new life.
 
Your plane makes a near crash landing, customs give you a hard time with unnecessary questioning, your passport is stamped, a multicultural montage of people stream towards exits. You try your best to navigate down an escalator - but a curt voice cuts through the cold wet air 'your standing on the wrong side'. A tube? What the hell is a tube? Where are the trains? This one pound coin looks too much like $2. The novelty size notes are too big to even fit in your wallet. Macca's doesn't stock Grand Angus burgers. Its all very confusing. Where on earth is Shepherds Bush?!
 
First things first, the most important asset you can possibly have at this moment and for the rest of your London experience is an oyster card. It wont be your first oyster card as they are legendary for evaporating the more pints you sink, but you must purchase one none the less. This is the easiest way to get around the city as all trains and buses are linked to your oyster. It is also about 50% cheaper than buying standard train and bus tickets. You should look at getting a weekly ticket zone 1-3 charged to your oyster to begin with to make travelling around in your initial week breezy and hassle free. 
 
Things you can discard at this point include thongs, t-shirts, shorts, skirts, sunscreen, sunglasses, sun hats, sun burns, after sun cream, sunflowers, sun bathing, sun baking, sun dresses, sun light...generally just the sun.
 

First Week in London

Lodge yourself in a hostel. For those who have spent the last 2/3 months travelling this will be a breeze, for those silly enough to go straight to London prepare yourself with anti rodent devices, bag locks, air freshener and anti creep replant. I would recommend staying in a large hostel to increase the sociability and the likelihood of not being a complete loner in your first couple of weeks. I have stayed in a couple of hostels in London, its not for everyone but The Clink in Kings Cross was a winner for me. If you want to get closer to the Australian community and decrease your commute time when house viewing, Belushis in Shepherds Bush isn't a bad spot.
 
 
What next
 
So maybe its day three. You are coming to the end of an uneasy period where you aren't sure if you had alcohol tremors or it was just really cold. You were shaking a lot - you did drink quite a bit in Europe, but you're not used to getting rained on everyday either. It must be that nasty rain surely.
 
If you have survived this far you've done well. You have probably made some awkward friendships with the other loners in your hostel and you have probably realised the pub food in England tastes like boiled dog compared to what your used to.
 
Anyway its time to find a home. Yes you are away from the nest and away from the tight clutches of your parents grip, but its not so bad - it just means hanging up your towel, washing your clothes and cleaning your dishes.

 
Where to House Search
 
You have two options here and this is where the great divide begins. Choose your path as clambering up its slippery walls is seldom done once the journey proceeds. To go West or South is to join the Australian caucus of bro-ism, flag waving and beer sculling. To go East or North is to abandon your fellow countrymen in search of a lifestyle of hipsters, cafes and communal coolness.
 

Each has its draws, while East offers the alternative types a cultural haven not even imaginable by Australian standards, the West is more like suburban Australia and all your mates live 5 minutes away. Out West you will probably become the bogan you never knew you could be and your accent will undoubtedly become stronger. Out East you will probably learn to cast a cynical glare on the sloppy Aussies, gregariously swinging their miniature beer bellies as they crawl from bar to bar.

For argument sake if your going West the biggest Aussie community is in Shepherds Bush. There are so many Aussies guarding the street corners, that 'She Bu' is known for its thong wearers even in Winter. Smaller but still very sizable communities also exist in Acton, Chiswick, Hammersmith, Fulham, Putney and Clapham. As a general marker if you get out of a tube station and there is the Australian ex-pat newspaper (TNT Magazine) stand, you are probably not far away from a Davo, Stevo, Robo or Chriso. Yep you are right at home.
 
As bogan as the Aussies in London might first appear you will have a lot in common with them being both travellers, both bogans and both here to have a good time. They will almost certainly form the majority of your friendships at least initially, unless of course you opt out of the kangaroo heavy chaos to live with some Brits.... well there are no Brits in London so maybe it'll be Pols, Irish, Saffas, Kiwis, Hungarians, French, Italian or Spaniards. Probably a mixture of the afore mentioned to be more accurate.
 


Australian Flag in South London (Source BBC News)


The best sources for house share is probably Spare Room, followed closely by Gumtree and Room Buddies. Other avenues also exist such as Speed Flatmating which operate all across the city. The most important thing to do when moving in is NEVER sign a lease. You are a traveller and therefore you lifestyle is transient. Often you will move out if your favourite housemates are gone, or if someone keeps eating your cheese. I personally moved for cheese eating reasons, but mainly to be closer to friends at total of 3 times in my year and a half stint. The last thing you want to do is get locked in to somewhere so always insist on paying cash. Your own room generally starts at 90/100 quid a week. You should never pay more than 80 quid a week to share a room.
 
To be honest its unlikely your going to get a winner on your first place. The important thing is that you move out of your hostel to save on the scores of the Queens Pound going walkabouts from your wallet. If you have to, find somewhere cheap and then use it as a base to look for somewhere else. My first house, which I both loathed and loved, had 20 residents - over three stories of rooms packed with 4 people a piece. Gunnersbury Lane Acton, you gave me life but crippled my soul. I will hate and love you forever.
 
 
Where to do the Necessities
 
So you have found a place. A steady diet of Gyros, Pide, Kebabs and Fried Chicken were your staples when travelling. You might have lost control of your kayak a couple of times on the river, with the heavy loving influx of grease. Now all you are craving is fresh home cooked meal and stable bowel movements. 
 
Once you have got a place and want to do some shopping you want to go to ASDAs, Morrisons or Tescos. Don’t shop at any Tescos Express shops or anything with the word 'express' as they will be a rip off. Also don’t shop at the off licenses for groceries as they are also a rip off - you can however find some cheap drinks here.

 

 

Essential Admin

      

      You want to get your life sorted out now basically. You need the following to work – a National Insurance Number and Bank Account. Once you acquire these necessary tools you have a world of employment opportunities awaiting.  

 

      After you are feeling somewhat settled I would totally recommend you find the local doctor. Take some proof of your address, then go to the doctors and ask to sign up for the National Health Service, it is totally free. I took months to do it and once hid from an ambulance because I hadn’t applied for the NHS and didn’t want to pay. I really did need to go to a hospital too. The lesson here is don’t drink next to glass windows and apply for the NHS as soon as possible because you along with me are undoubtedly foolish when drinking, this is part of the reason you even considered moving to London.

 

      The next step is to get rid of your Vodafone sim and throw it to the wind. Now you can get the world best mobile provider Giff Gaff! Welcome to insane savings…'thank you very much author, you saved me squillions.'

 

 

      Where to Look for a Job

 

      Those looking for a job now are fortunate enough to have missed the Global Financial Crisis which crippled the British economy ten fold what it did in Australia. Luckily the job market is on a steady rise, as is the British Pound.

 

      Regardless of your profession or aspirational profession, looking for a job at first might prove somewhat difficult. Use the opportunities this bustling city has to further your career prospects back home and avoid the minimum wage bar tending and hospitality jobs if possible.

 

      One point should however be made. Hospitality jobs are a great starting point while you are looking for something better. If you are looking for office admin jobs - Office Angels has a decent amount of work usually available. The hospitality agency - Admiral Recruitment, is also a good start point if you need some income while looking for a better job.

 

      If you can, avoid minimum wage jobs in your long term prospects. Minimum wage will only bring in 200-250 quid per week. When your rent is around 100, your groceries around 50 and your oyster around 30 this does not leave a lot of money left to play.

 

 

      Start Living

 

      Hopefully by now you are in a job somewhat career relevant, you have a house and you have a wealth of new life experiences. Most likely you haven't listened to my advice but that's ok, its your own personal journey. By this stage you are now "living the dream" as we in the business call it.

 

      London's grey throbbing heart while at first is gloomily off-putting, will grow on you as the weeks and months trickle by. The city doesn't get any lonelier with time, but soon you will find peace in the bustling solitude. While scenes in Melbourne and Sydney are enjoyable, London's sheer size means there is simply just more to do - enjoy the numerous art exhibitions, the outdoor street festivals, the niche markets, the quaint beer gardens, the grimy nightclubs, the curry on brick lane, the street art in Shoreditch, the lack of customer service and the eclectic mix of people from all works of life, running like clock-work from Heathrow to Cockfosters. 

 

      London is both tender in its beauty and brutal in its wrath so try to look past the agony and see the positives for what they are. Try not to remember shifting houses by carrying 3 suitcases on a packed tube. Forget the moments when your pay cheque is spent and you have to survive on just mayonnaise and rice. Try not to dwell on getting absurdly inebriated on Saturday night and not seeing that exhibition you wanted to on Sunday. Look forward to making lifelong friends, even though you may ultimately end up worlds apart. Take a note of your new found ability - to get along with just about anyone from any situation on earth. Relish your opportunities to learn about yourself and the world around you. But most importantly remember - as real as your life in London feels, it is only temporary and one day you will wake up from this bitter-sweet dream back home in Australia, so enjoy it while it lasts. Myself being in a position now with 2 years back in the real world, you never really leave London and there will always be a piece missing once you leave. It will always be your nostalgic second home and the place your younger self was born by fire into real adulthood and self awareness - even if only realised upon your return.

 

 

 

 

 

Budget Travel Guide - Egypt, Jordan and Turkey

Safety and Threat Awareness

Isis Militants in East Syria

Budget aside, if you are reading this - you are probably a little apprehensive about traveling to the region. It’s understandable, there is little reliable information regarding safety this far off the beaten path. While swathes of travelers trample over the Western Europe circle, few venture to the land that sits awkwardly somewhere between Europe, Africa and Asia.  

Undoubtedly they have heard the news. With radical Islamic militants seeking to destroy the West, the Middle East cannot be safe they say. While the Middle East has a complex political and religious landscape, these fears are however quite irrational.

The evil eastern ‘boogie men’ were feared long before a disgruntled Saudi oil billionaire flew planes into the twin towers. Your ancestors some 600 years ago also feared the scary eastern men, as the Islamic Ottoman Empire gained a foothold in Europe. Before them the European Crusaders valiantly rode east only to be defeated by Islamic Arabs. Spain and parts of France were also invaded from modern day Morocco. The West has always perceived the threat of the East.

Ottoman Empire 1299-1922

While some of the fears are founded, 90% of it is a false illusion of danger. It seems the terrorists which tragically took the lives of multitudes of Americans during 9/11, set out to instil exactly what they wanted to do, to terrorise us. Fortunately the views of some groups such as Al Qaeda and the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria are not reflective of the views of the Middle Eastern populous, who by and largely stand in polar opposition to such extremism. Many Muslims you will meet in the Middle East will tell you such groups don’t practice true Islam, which above all instils love and respect for other human beings. 

It doesn’t take a genius to avoid Afghanistan, Gaza, Libya, Iraq, Syria and Egypt’s North Sinai, but as anything else is fair game provided you are careful. The key to travelling the region is monitoring news situations and using a high degree of vigilance.
 

  

Budgeting

With the security situation thoroughly covered, the next most imposing questions lean towards the estimated expenditures you may accrue. To be blunt this simply cannot be calculated – it’s going to be a little cheaper than what you might spend in Europe but not a lot. Always expect to pay more than you anticipate, this largely due to the area being far less protecting of consumer rights than Western nations. With more blurry boundaries surrounding consumer rights, you can anticipate blurry prices also. While the locals do it pretty cheap, you’re not a local and won’t be charged like one. Unfortunately your wallet is a target and you are at the total mercy of people who have little to no command of your mother tongue, making price negotiation very difficult.

While the Arab World can be financially uncomfortable in these respects, it does not take more than a few days to acclimatise to the chaos of Middle Eastern business. They key is poker face. No price should be paid in full, including the tours your hotel is offering. Prices are completely negotiable throughout Egypt, Jordan and Turkey and if you’re not paying 2/3 a store attendants, taxi drivers or tour operator’s asking price you aren’t getting your monies worth. If you aren’t happy with a price be prepared to walk away, often at this point a reasonable price will be offered.

Getting Around

Arabic business culture in general can be somewhat chaotic by Western Standards, so when it comes time for Western travellers to travel the Middle East, don’t be expecting to be riding snuggly in your Greyhound/Megabus with your blanket pulled up around your chin. I have travelled Europe, North America, Asia and Australia with ease, the Middle East however is a whole new ball game when it’s time to get out of town and see the sights.

Public Bus in Cairo, Egypt

Generally speaking most Middle Eastern countries (not including Turkey) do not have organised public transport systems or even coach services. Bus services do not have websites and do not even run to schedule but rather just leave at the driver’s discretion/when the bus is full.

The general lack of organisation and the inability to understand Arabic in these situations is a nightmare and should be avoided at all costs. For these reasons it is important that you find a driver that you can trust and will give you reasonable prices. It may take a few crappy taxi rides but you will come across one eventually.

I guess you’re wondering ‘what is a crappy taxi ride?’ In Jordan anyone that owns a car will try and tell you they are a taxi driver. When we arrived at Queen Aliyah International Airport we were offered a taxi ride in a guy’s BMW. We realised he wasn’t a ‘taxi driver’ only when he picked up a friend mid trip, who also wasn’t sure how to find our hotel. Although scary this was actually quite a nice cultural experience as it departed from standard Western taxi etiquette. 

Besides the completely fraudulent ‘taxis’ even yellow cabs in both Egypt and Jordan will offer unreasonable prices and have some questionable business tactics. I was in an aggressive confrontation with a taxi driver in Sharm El Sheik after he short changed by about $30 (I got my money back). A cab driver in Jordan also tried to charge an extra $60 for making a stopover which was on the way to where we were going, having incorrectly assumed I knew nothing about geography. 

The lesson is find a good driver and stick with them. After a few questionable experiences across Egypt and Jordan salvation came in the form of a light skinned Jordanian man in his late 50s named Khaled Abu Sawyfan. Khaled gave us prices which were about 2/3 of what our hotel driver offered. He was also incredibly pleasant and offered us informative facts on the places we visited. If he’s still in the game for when you get around to your trip give him a call, I would highly recommend him. His number is 07 7726 7521.

The Misconception of Westerns and Cultural Sensitivity

Unfortunately most of the people working in tourism in the Middle East see Westerners as a giant dollar sign and will do almost anything to leech your pockets of wads of cash. There is an unreasonable sense that Westerners have absurd amounts of money to spend. But who are they to know I guess, if your only insight into Westerners was a 50 Cent clip you would think the same.

Remember also a minority of people may not feel jaded in giving you inflated prices. We (us westerners) have after all caused thousands of civilian casualties across Afghanistan and Iraq and openly back our Western ally Israel.  

Destroyed Civilian Homes in Gaza, Palestine

 Although it’s not your fault personally, uneducated people in your own country may also view Muslims as a whole as enemies because of the acts of a few. The same goes for the less educated in other regions. Do the right thing and show them respect even if angered about a price hike. The more hospitable you are, less likely he will be to do it to the next tourist.

While cultural sensitivity does not always go both ways, it is important to understand and behave in ways considered moderate, even if just for your own safety. Drinking is forbidden in Islam and while it may be rampant in a place like Sharm El Sheikh, don’t be expected to look kindly upon outside the tourist towns. While parts of Amman, Cairo and most certainly all of Istanbul have a presence of drinkers and party goers, read the situation and determine when a few beverages may or may not be appropriate. In any circumstance however, getting rotten drunk is simply not an option and will offend.

In many cases what you take for granted as appropriate back home may considered incredibly inappropriate over there. Moderate dress is important for both women AND men. It should be encouraged for men not to wear singlets and shorts as this can be offensive to some locals. For women in particular it is also very important to cover up your arms and legs in entirety. Western women are subject to leering and whistling, whether covered or not but it will certainly lessen your attention by being as modest as possible. This is particularly important in traditional areas such as downtown Amman and the Islamic quarter of Cairo. Expect to be followed, yelled at, cat called and possibly even groped if you don’t. 

It is important to note that while Western women have liberal choice in terms of their dress sense, Muslim women sometimes don’t. Unfortunately the liberation of the Western Woman and probably the sexually loaded MTV content reaching Arabic television sets, means that some Arabic men see Western Women as highly promiscuous. Don’t give them anything to work with – dress modestly and you are unlikely to get hassled. 

The Tourist Traps, the Scams and the Con Artists

 The best advice I got was from our guide of Cairo and the Pyramids - ‘Nothing is free, nothing is a gift’. This was invaluable across our trip through Egypt, Jordan and Turkey. If anyone is even talking to you and they aren’t tourists, they want your money.

I generally consider myself a good traveler with a good eye for a scam but it still didn’t save me. I once took a calculated risk at a road stop at the Czech/Poland border and deemed that the guy asking for money wasn’t an official. I sped off and was not followed by any police cars, I found out later this is a common scam in Eastern Europe. I also one called bluff on some thieves in London and refused to give up my phone, who gave up once I stood my ground. But once again my eye for a scam didn’t save my wallet in the Middle East. 

To begin my trip I had my passport stamped at Cairo Airport and was the only one in line at customs waiting for clearance into the domestic section of the airport. I proceeded to the security gate and had my bag scanned. There was no illegal contraband. I complied with the guard to a pat down search as can be standard protocol at airports. Working his way down my sides he eventually reached the square bulge of my wallet and demanded I take it out. “Your bag is fine but I want 400 Egyptian pounds before you clear security” he said sternly. Refusing to give 400 I settled for an amount of 200.I thought a 200 pound note lost was better than having them put drugs in my bag and going to jail. That was the first price I didn’t anticipate.

The scams didn’t stop after customs. Secondly I was lulled into believing that a Bedouin camel herder was innocently just asking me to take a photo next to the camel. I took the photo and next he instructed me to pose with my arm on the camel. After the arm was on, then it was a request to pose with my foot in the harness. Suddenly I’m on a camel half against my will, after he hurriedly called the camel to stand. Suddenly I glanced over my shoulder - my girlfriend was on a camel too. “Its fine, you not British or Russian. I don’t charge” he said. Next thing we are taken to a back alley and demanded $50 before he would safely let my girlfriend off the camel. I had to comply and was incredibly frustrated at myself for the rest of the evening, I found solace in knowing I probably gave $50 to someone that really needed it. It still didn’t excuse his criminal behaviour, but as I said I should have known better, anyone that talks to you just wants your money. 

The Pros, the Things to Do and the Things to See

Despite your wallet sometimes being viewed as endless commodity, the pros far outweigh the cons in this unforgettable region of the world. While I have talked about safety precautions and the endless mobs of scam artists, the Middle East offers a truly culturally enriching and humbling human experience which can’t be missed.

While the political landscape of the region is tumultuous, it is an inspiring region whose inhabitant’s existence revolves around a homemade communal lifestyle of freshly cooked meals, a social close knit family unit and a deep respect for religion. While sophisticated economies exist, the area is not desperately caught in an eternal race against the minute hand as sadly much of our lives in the West are. It is not uncommon to walk the streets after Ramadan and have someone offer you a meal, to shop where there are no real shop keepers just men drinking tea, to see large mobs of children chasing a single soccer ball, or to see someone alone at a Shisha Bar in smoky solitude but totally content. The communal culture certainly made me long for a less culturally alienated existence in my home life, where everyone is a stranger and people do not easily trust those they do not know.

Along with the regions fascinating cultural landscape the areas age can be felt down to its core. The Sumerian Empire, The Babylonian Empire, the Egyptian Empire, The Roman Empire, The Byzantine Empire, The Persian Empire, The Ottoman Empire and the Arab Empire have all at one stage claimed a stake on the region, enriching it with an unmatched antiquity. The area is far older and has far grander ruins than Europe even comes close to. Crusaders castles spot the desert, roman fountains and amphitheatres are abundant, ancient Islamic mosques kiss the skyline, whole Byzantine and Roman towns lay in pristine condition and within a few hundred kilometres of each other two Wonders of the World sit gracefully on opposite sides of the Red Sea.

For a view unblemished by false misrepresentation of Arabs in the media, you must see the area for yourself. It will certainly not disappoint. Here were some of the highlights in my trip along with some photos I took along the way;

Tiran Island, Egypt

Although grossly overpopulated by multitudes of Russian and English tourists, this is the gem of the Red Sea. The Red Sea while being encircled by dry and lifeless desert offers a surreal juxtaposition in the abundance of colour and life drifting beneath the surface. A day trip to Tiran Island from Sharm El Sheikh including lunch will set you back about $35.

Cairo, Egypt

While the media constantly bombards us with news about the revolutions stemming out of Tahir Square, the city feels remarkably safe, even in Tahir Square itself. After coming here only on a day trip I regretted not actually spending a couple of nights. While I probably wouldn’t venture out after dark or into the slums, Cairo deserves a share in your itinerary.  The Islamic Quarter of the city is an ancient and chaotic maelstrom of souks, mosques and beggars and should not be missed. The Egyptian museum and in particular Tutankhamen’s burial treasures are also awe inspiring. The pyramids themselves are the obvious attraction in Cairo, with the Sphinx and the Pyramid of Giza one of the key highlights of the trip. A quick word of warning on camel and horse rides at the Pyramid; the Bedouins here aggressively want everything your wallet can offer. Don’t get on a camel or a horse without agreeing on a price. I visited Cairo on a day trip from Sharm El Sheikh for $220 – I should have stayed overnight instead and got a domestic flight.

Luxor, Egypt

As a whole I enjoyed Luxor more than I did Cairo. The city itself is underwhelming but has a nice tropical flavour with the beginnings of a somewhat African vibe. The key highlights of Luxor are its ancient Egyptian ruins which for the most part are incredibly well preserved and undeniably astounding. I wouldn’t go to Egypt without spending time at the Valley of the Kings, the intricate hieroglyphics and the eerie depths of these burial tombs are an archaeologist’s fantasy. Equally you could also spend hours strolling the Temple of Karnak and the Deir el-Bahri with ruins far older and more beautiful than any ruin I have seen in Europe. A day trip to Luxor cost me $240 from Sharm El Sheikh, in retrospect I should have caught the train down to Luxor from Cairo. Only word of warning for Luxor if you are on a tour – they will undoubtedly take you to either a Papyrus or Perfume shop. If you don’t want anything at the shops be very firm as they are quite aggressive in their sales tactics and will not take no for an answer unless you too are aggressive.

Amman, Jordan

Amman was my favourite city I travelled in the Middle East. While not the most splendorous of cities it’s rich and sometimes challenging cultural differences were a great source of insight into a truly Islamic city. While Cairo has a residing Christian population of 14% almost all Ammonites are Sunni Muslim. The Roman citadel and amphitheatre although being the highlights of the town historically, were not as fascinating as the cultural aspects Amman has to offer. Strolling through souqs, scrambling for food at the end of Ramadan, smoking shisha in Amman’s cafes and getting hassled by shop owners is all part of the fun. A few cafes and restaurants stood out for me here including Hashem in downtown Amman, Green Turtle Café on Rainbow Street and Sufra on Rainbow Street. As a side note the Taxi drivers in Amman are scam artists and will give you prices almost triple what the locals pay. Agree on a price before your journey and once you find a driver you trust stick with him.

Wadi Mujib, Jordan

One of the lesser known attractions in Jordan Wadi Mujib is a must do. Despite being at first a little hesitant to go I was quickly surprised by how much fun it was clambering through waterfalls and streams, in a small crevasse of fresh water which flows into the Dead Sea. While I didn’t like the Dead Sea (the beach is overpriced and unkempt) I had an immense amount of fun at Mujib. As a stopover on the way back it might be worth asking your driver to stop at Madaba to see the ancient Christian mosaics also. One tip at Mujib, don’t let any local ‘lifeguards’ come with you. This is a scam and they will harass you for a tip at completion of hike. We refused as we had specifically asked not to have a guide. The trip cost us $40 including a stop at Madaba on the way back. Wadi Mujib is difficult finding on Google Maps but its about 10 minutes drive south of Amman Beach on the Dead Sea.

Jerash, Jordan

After extensively visiting Roman ruins in Europe I initially thought Jerash would be underwhelming. Despite not feeling well on the day we visited Jerash, I would probably call the city the best collection of Roman ruins I have ever seen. Although I have not been, my girlfriend described them as better than Ephesus in Turkey. Jerash is an extremely well preserved Roman town which includes a market place, a cobbled road with intact shop fronts, two remarkable gates, two temples and two amphitheatres. It’s rare that you get the opportunity to walk streets once walked by the Emperor Hadrian himself. The trip from Amman to Jerash and having our driver wait for 2 hours cost us $35. 

Petra, Jordan

Petra is the obvious gem of Jordan. I would dare say this Wonder of the World was better than even the Pyramids. This pre Aramaic turned Greek turned Roman city feels like being on Tatooine in Star Wars, as you guide through a hostile looking collection of caves, desert and cliffs. Nestled in the rocks and guarded by a narrow stone crevasse, Petra is breathtakingly remarkable. It is the most astounding piece of archaeology I have witnessed and its beauty trumps any ancient manmade structures I have seen worldwide. Devote a few days to Petra and make sure you take the 800 steps to the monastery. Spanning over several kilometres Petra is not for the faint hearted so make sure you have a fair degree of fitness before trekking up into the stony crags. Entry to Petra cost me $85 on a two day ticket.

Istanbul, Turkey

Unfortunately as you may have picked up I only spent 5 days in Turkey, all of which I spent in Istanbul. While my girlfriend emphasised Cappadocia as the highlight of a previous Turkey trip unfortunately Istanbul is all I had time for. This being said as a city Istanbul did not disappoint in the slightest. Among cities such as Berlin, New York and Barcelona, Istanbul is among my favourite cities and a city I could picture living in. Unlike its other Muslim sister cities of Amman and Cairo, Istanbul has a developed and sophisticated feel which outshines many of its European neighbours. Comparatively only a few 100 kilometres west, Athens feels about half as developed as Istanbul. A definite highlight of Istanbul was the Blue Mosque which I think deserves a spot next to Petra and The Pyramids as a Wonder of the World. As far as religious buildings go I haven’t seen anything more architecturally astounding or as beautifully decorated in its interior. Another great highlight of Istanbul was Topkapi Palace the administrative building of the Ottoman Empire. Airfares from Sharm El Sheikh to Istanbul cost me $200.

Putting the Pieces Together

The Middle East is not what you think it is. With instability in the region and our phobias of terrorism dominating conversation about the area, we as tourists dismiss the area as no go zone. The fact is referring to the Middle East as a hotspot of conflict is like saying the UK is a war zone based on the events affecting East Ukraine. The area is safe as long as you remain vigilant and monitor news headlines you will be fine. As far as tourism goes travelling on a budget is difficult but possible as long as you are willing to haggle to no end. That being said the culturally enriching experience of the Middle East is not to be missed and by far the most interesting portion of the globe I have travelled. If you have a thick skin and can deal with the tourist scams then this is the region is for you, if you don’t go to Europe or the States. If you are brave enough to venture to the region you will unlock yourself to an ancient and communal culture which hosts some of the most truly remarkable human monuments that we as a species have ever created and probably ever will create. For a truly humbling human experience, which leaves you longing for a simpler and more authentic lifestyle, travel to the region and it is guaranteed not disappoint.