Safety and Threat Awareness
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| Isis Militants in East Syria |
Budget aside, if you
are reading this - you are probably a little apprehensive about traveling to
the region. It’s understandable, there is little reliable information regarding
safety this far off the beaten path. While swathes of travelers trample over
the Western Europe circle, few venture to the land that sits awkwardly
somewhere between Europe, Africa and Asia.
Undoubtedly they have heard the news. With radical Islamic militants seeking to destroy
the West, the Middle East cannot be safe they say. While the Middle East has a
complex political and religious landscape, these fears are however quite
irrational.
The evil eastern ‘boogie men’ were feared long before a
disgruntled Saudi oil billionaire flew planes into the twin towers. Your
ancestors some 600 years ago also feared the scary eastern men, as the Islamic
Ottoman Empire gained a foothold in Europe. Before them the European Crusaders
valiantly rode east only to be defeated by Islamic Arabs. Spain and parts of
France were also invaded from modern day Morocco. The West has always
perceived the threat of the East.
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| Ottoman Empire 1299-1922 |
While some of the fears are founded, 90% of it is a false
illusion of danger. It seems the terrorists which tragically took the lives of
multitudes of Americans during 9/11, set out to instil exactly what they wanted
to do, to terrorise us. Fortunately the views of some groups such as Al Qaeda
and the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria are not reflective of the views of the
Middle Eastern populous, who by and largely stand in polar opposition to such
extremism. Many Muslims you will meet in the Middle East will tell you such
groups don’t practice true Islam, which above all instils love and respect for
other human beings.
It doesn’t take a genius to avoid Afghanistan, Gaza, Libya,
Iraq, Syria and Egypt’s North Sinai, but as anything else is fair game provided
you are careful. The key to travelling the region is monitoring news situations
and using a high degree of vigilance.
Budgeting
With the security situation thoroughly covered, the next
most imposing questions lean towards the estimated expenditures you may accrue.
To be blunt this simply cannot be calculated – it’s going to be a little
cheaper than what you might spend in Europe but not a lot. Always expect to pay
more than you anticipate, this largely due to the area being far less
protecting of consumer rights than Western nations. With more blurry boundaries
surrounding consumer rights, you can anticipate blurry prices also. While the
locals do it pretty cheap, you’re not a local and won’t be charged like one.
Unfortunately your wallet is a target and you are at the total mercy of people
who have little to no command of your mother tongue, making price negotiation
very difficult.
While
the Arab World can be financially uncomfortable in these respects, it does not
take more than a few days to acclimatise to the chaos of Middle Eastern
business. They key is poker face. No price should be paid in full, including
the tours your hotel is offering. Prices are completely negotiable throughout
Egypt, Jordan and Turkey and if you’re not paying 2/3 a store attendants, taxi
drivers or tour operator’s asking price you aren’t getting your monies worth. If
you aren’t happy with a price be prepared to walk away, often at this point a
reasonable price will be offered.
Getting Around
Arabic business culture in general can be somewhat chaotic
by Western Standards, so when it comes time for Western travellers to travel
the Middle East, don’t be expecting to be riding snuggly in your Greyhound/Megabus
with your blanket pulled up around your chin. I have travelled Europe, North
America, Asia and Australia with ease, the Middle East however is a whole new
ball game when it’s time to get out of town and see the sights.
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| Public Bus in Cairo, Egypt |
Generally
speaking most Middle Eastern countries (not including Turkey) do not have
organised public transport systems or even coach services. Bus services do not
have websites and do not even run to schedule but rather just leave at the
driver’s discretion/when the bus is full.
The general lack of organisation and
the inability to understand Arabic in these situations is a nightmare and
should be avoided at all costs. For these reasons it is important that you find
a driver that you can trust and will give you reasonable prices. It may take a
few crappy taxi rides but you will come across one eventually.
I guess you’re wondering ‘what is a crappy taxi ride?’ In
Jordan anyone that owns a car will try and tell you they are a taxi driver. When
we arrived at Queen Aliyah International Airport we were offered a taxi ride in
a guy’s BMW. We realised he wasn’t a ‘taxi driver’ only when he picked up a
friend mid trip, who also wasn’t sure how to find our hotel. Although scary
this was actually quite a nice cultural experience as it departed from standard
Western taxi etiquette.
Besides the completely fraudulent ‘taxis’ even yellow cabs
in both Egypt and Jordan will offer unreasonable prices and have some
questionable business tactics. I was in an aggressive confrontation with a taxi
driver in Sharm El Sheik after he short changed by about $30 (I got my money
back). A cab driver in Jordan also tried to charge an extra $60 for making a
stopover which was on the way to where we were going, having incorrectly
assumed I knew nothing about geography.
The lesson is find a good driver and stick with them. After
a few questionable experiences across Egypt and Jordan salvation came in the
form of a light skinned Jordanian man in his late 50s named Khaled Abu Sawyfan.
Khaled gave us prices which were about 2/3 of what our hotel driver offered. He
was also incredibly pleasant and offered us informative facts on the places we
visited. If he’s still in the game for when you get around to your trip give
him a call, I would highly recommend him. His number is 07 7726 7521.
The Misconception of
Westerns and Cultural Sensitivity
Unfortunately most of the people working in tourism in the
Middle East see Westerners as a giant dollar sign and will do almost anything
to leech your pockets of wads of cash. There is an unreasonable sense that
Westerners have absurd amounts of money to spend. But who are they to know I
guess, if your only insight into Westerners was a 50 Cent clip you would think
the same.
Remember
also a minority of people may not feel jaded in giving you inflated prices. We
(us westerners) have after all caused thousands of civilian casualties across
Afghanistan and Iraq and openly
back our Western ally Israel.
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| Destroyed Civilian Homes in Gaza, Palestine |
While cultural sensitivity does not always go both ways, it
is important to understand and behave in ways considered moderate, even if just
for your own safety. Drinking is forbidden in Islam and while it may be rampant
in a place like Sharm El Sheikh, don’t be expected to look kindly upon outside
the tourist towns. While parts of Amman, Cairo and most certainly all of
Istanbul have a presence of drinkers and party goers, read the situation and
determine when a few beverages may or may not be appropriate. In any
circumstance however, getting rotten drunk is simply not an option and will
offend.
In many cases what you take for granted as appropriate back
home may considered incredibly inappropriate over there. Moderate dress is
important for both women AND men. It should be encouraged for men not to wear
singlets and shorts as this can be offensive to some locals. For women in
particular it is also very important to cover up your arms and legs in
entirety. Western women are subject to leering and whistling, whether covered
or not but it will certainly lessen your attention by being as modest as
possible. This is particularly important in traditional areas such as downtown
Amman and the Islamic quarter of Cairo. Expect to be followed, yelled at, cat
called and possibly even groped if you don’t.
It is important to note that while Western women
have liberal choice in terms of their dress sense, Muslim women sometimes don’t.
Unfortunately the liberation of the Western Woman and probably the sexually
loaded MTV content reaching Arabic television sets, means that some Arabic men
see Western Women as highly promiscuous. Don’t give them anything to work with
– dress modestly and you are unlikely to get hassled.
The Tourist Traps,
the Scams and the Con Artists
The best advice I got was from our guide of Cairo and the
Pyramids - ‘Nothing is free, nothing is a gift’. This was invaluable across our
trip through Egypt, Jordan and Turkey. If anyone is even talking to you and
they aren’t tourists, they want your money.
I generally consider myself a good traveler with a good eye
for a scam but it still didn’t save me. I once took a calculated risk at a road
stop at the Czech/Poland border and deemed that the guy asking for money wasn’t
an official. I sped off and was not followed by any police cars, I found out
later this is a common scam in Eastern Europe. I also one called bluff on some
thieves in London and refused to give up my phone, who gave up once I stood my ground.
But once again my eye for a scam didn’t save my wallet in the Middle East.
To begin my trip I had my passport stamped at Cairo Airport
and was the only one in line at customs waiting for clearance into the domestic
section of the airport. I proceeded to the security gate and had my bag
scanned. There was no illegal contraband. I complied with the guard to a pat
down search as can be standard protocol at airports. Working his way down my
sides he eventually reached the square bulge of my wallet and demanded I take
it out. “Your bag is fine but I want 400 Egyptian pounds before you clear
security” he said sternly. Refusing to give 400 I settled for an amount of
200.I thought a 200 pound note lost was better than having them put drugs in my
bag and going to jail. That was the first price I didn’t anticipate.
The
scams didn’t stop after customs. Secondly I was lulled into believing that a Bedouin
camel herder was innocently just asking me to take a photo next to the camel. I
took the photo and next he instructed me to pose with my arm on the camel. After
the arm was on, then it was a request to pose with my foot in the harness. Suddenly I’m on a camel half against my
will, after he hurriedly called the camel to stand. Suddenly I glanced over my
shoulder - my girlfriend was on a camel too. “Its fine, you not British or
Russian. I don’t charge” he said. Next thing we are taken to a back alley and
demanded $50 before he would safely let my girlfriend off the camel. I had to
comply and was incredibly frustrated at myself for the rest of the evening, I
found solace in knowing I probably gave $50 to someone that really needed it. It
still didn’t excuse his criminal behaviour, but as I said I should have known
better, anyone that talks to you just wants your money.
The Pros, the Things
to Do and the Things to See
Despite your wallet sometimes being viewed as endless
commodity, the pros far outweigh the cons in this unforgettable region of the
world. While I have talked about safety precautions and the endless mobs of
scam artists, the Middle East offers a truly culturally enriching and humbling
human experience which can’t be missed.
While the political landscape of the region is tumultuous,
it is an inspiring region whose inhabitant’s existence revolves around a
homemade communal lifestyle of freshly cooked meals, a social close knit family
unit and a deep respect for religion. While sophisticated economies exist, the
area is not desperately caught in an eternal race against the minute hand as
sadly much of our lives in the West are. It is not uncommon to walk the streets
after Ramadan and have someone offer you a meal, to shop where there are no
real shop keepers just men drinking tea, to see large mobs of children chasing
a single soccer ball, or to see someone alone at a Shisha Bar in smoky solitude
but totally content. The communal culture certainly made me long for a less
culturally alienated existence in my home life, where everyone is a stranger
and people do not easily trust those they do not know.
Along with the regions fascinating cultural landscape the
areas age can be felt down to its core. The Sumerian Empire, The Babylonian
Empire, the Egyptian Empire, The Roman Empire, The Byzantine Empire, The
Persian Empire, The Ottoman Empire and the Arab Empire have all at one stage
claimed a stake on the region, enriching it with an unmatched antiquity. The
area is far older and has far grander ruins than Europe even comes close to.
Crusaders castles spot the desert, roman fountains and amphitheatres are
abundant, ancient Islamic mosques kiss the skyline, whole Byzantine and Roman
towns lay in pristine condition and within a few hundred kilometres of each
other two Wonders of the World sit gracefully on opposite sides of the Red Sea.
For a view unblemished by false misrepresentation of Arabs
in the media, you must see the area for yourself. It will certainly not
disappoint. Here were some of the highlights in my trip along with some photos
I took along the way;
Tiran Island, Egypt
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Although grossly
overpopulated by multitudes of Russian and English tourists, this is the gem of
the Red Sea. The Red Sea while being encircled by dry and lifeless desert offers
a surreal juxtaposition in the abundance of colour and life drifting beneath
the surface. A day trip to Tiran Island from Sharm El Sheikh including lunch
will set you back about $35.
Cairo, Egypt
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While the media
constantly bombards us with news about the revolutions stemming out of Tahir
Square, the city feels remarkably safe, even in Tahir Square itself. After
coming here only on a day trip I regretted not actually spending a couple of
nights. While I probably wouldn’t venture out after dark or into the slums,
Cairo deserves a share in your itinerary.
The Islamic Quarter of the city is an ancient and chaotic maelstrom of
souks, mosques and beggars and should not be missed. The Egyptian museum and in
particular Tutankhamen’s burial treasures are also awe inspiring. The pyramids
themselves are the obvious attraction in Cairo, with the Sphinx and the Pyramid
of Giza one of the key highlights of the trip. A quick word of warning on camel
and horse rides at the Pyramid; the Bedouins here aggressively want everything
your wallet can offer. Don’t get on a camel or a horse without agreeing on a
price. I visited Cairo on a day trip from Sharm El Sheikh for $220 – I should have
stayed overnight instead and got a domestic flight.
Luxor, Egypt
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As a whole I enjoyed
Luxor more than I did Cairo. The city itself is underwhelming but has a nice
tropical flavour with the beginnings of a somewhat African vibe. The key
highlights of Luxor are its ancient Egyptian ruins which for the most part are
incredibly well preserved and undeniably astounding. I wouldn’t go to Egypt
without spending time at the Valley of the Kings, the intricate hieroglyphics
and the eerie depths of these burial tombs are an archaeologist’s fantasy.
Equally you could also spend hours strolling the Temple of Karnak and the Deir
el-Bahri with ruins far older and more beautiful than any ruin I have seen in
Europe. A day trip to Luxor cost me $240 from Sharm El Sheikh, in retrospect I
should have caught the train down to Luxor from Cairo. Only word of warning for
Luxor if you are on a tour – they will undoubtedly take you to either a Papyrus
or Perfume shop. If you don’t want anything at the shops be very firm as they
are quite aggressive in their sales tactics and will not take no for an answer
unless you too are aggressive.
Amman, Jordan
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Amman was my
favourite city I travelled in the Middle East. While not the most splendorous
of cities it’s rich and sometimes challenging cultural differences were a great
source of insight into a truly Islamic city. While Cairo has a residing
Christian population of 14% almost all Ammonites are Sunni Muslim. The Roman
citadel and amphitheatre although being the highlights of the town historically,
were not as fascinating as the cultural aspects Amman has to offer. Strolling
through souqs, scrambling for food at the end of Ramadan, smoking shisha in
Amman’s cafes and getting hassled by shop owners is all part of the fun. A few
cafes and restaurants stood out for me here including Hashem in downtown Amman,
Green Turtle Café on Rainbow Street and Sufra on Rainbow Street. As a side note
the Taxi drivers in Amman are scam artists and will give you prices almost triple
what the locals pay. Agree on a price before your journey and once you find a
driver you trust stick with him.
Wadi Mujib, Jordan
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One
of the lesser
known attractions in Jordan Wadi Mujib is a must do. Despite being at
first a
little hesitant to go I was quickly surprised by how much fun it was
clambering
through waterfalls and streams, in a small crevasse of fresh water which
flows
into the Dead Sea. While I didn’t like the Dead Sea (the beach is
overpriced
and unkempt) I had an immense amount of fun at Mujib. As a stopover on
the way
back it might be worth asking your driver to stop at Madaba to see the
ancient
Christian mosaics also. One tip at Mujib, don’t let any local
‘lifeguards’ come
with you. This is a scam and they will harass you for a tip at
completion of hike.
We refused as we had specifically asked not to have a guide. The trip
cost us
$40 including a stop at Madaba on the way back. Wadi Mujib is difficult
finding on Google Maps but its about 10 minutes drive south of Amman
Beach on the Dead Sea.
Jerash, Jordan
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After extensively visiting
Roman ruins in Europe I initially thought Jerash would be underwhelming. Despite not feeling well on the day we visited Jerash, I would probably
call the city the best collection of Roman ruins I have ever seen. Although I
have not been, my girlfriend described them as better than Ephesus in Turkey.
Jerash is an extremely well preserved Roman town which includes a market place,
a cobbled road with intact shop fronts, two remarkable gates, two temples and
two amphitheatres. It’s rare that you get the opportunity to walk streets once
walked by the Emperor Hadrian himself. The trip from Amman to Jerash and having
our driver wait for 2 hours cost us $35.
Petra, Jordan
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Petra is the obvious gem of Jordan. I would dare say this
Wonder of the World was better than even the Pyramids. This pre Aramaic turned
Greek turned Roman city feels like being on Tatooine in Star Wars, as you guide
through a hostile looking collection of caves, desert and cliffs. Nestled in
the rocks and guarded by a narrow stone crevasse, Petra is breathtakingly remarkable.
It is the most astounding piece of archaeology I have witnessed and its beauty
trumps any ancient manmade structures I have seen worldwide. Devote a few days
to Petra and make sure you take the 800 steps to the monastery. Spanning over several
kilometres Petra is not for the faint hearted so make sure you have a fair
degree of fitness before trekking up into the stony crags. Entry to Petra cost
me $85 on a two day ticket.
Istanbul, Turkey
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Unfortunately as you
may have picked up I only spent 5 days in Turkey, all of which I spent in
Istanbul. While my girlfriend emphasised Cappadocia as the highlight of a
previous Turkey trip unfortunately Istanbul is all I had time for. This being
said as a city Istanbul did not disappoint in the slightest. Among cities such
as Berlin, New York and Barcelona, Istanbul is among my favourite cities and a
city I could picture living in. Unlike its other Muslim sister cities of Amman
and Cairo, Istanbul has a developed and sophisticated feel which outshines many
of its European neighbours. Comparatively only a few 100 kilometres west,
Athens feels about half as developed as Istanbul. A definite highlight of
Istanbul was the Blue Mosque which I think deserves a spot next to Petra and
The Pyramids as a Wonder of the World. As far as religious buildings go I haven’t
seen anything more architecturally astounding or as beautifully decorated in
its interior. Another great highlight of Istanbul was Topkapi Palace the
administrative building of the Ottoman Empire. Airfares from Sharm El Sheikh to
Istanbul cost me $200.
Putting the Pieces Together
The Middle East is not what you think it is.
With instability in the region and our phobias of terrorism dominating conversation
about the area, we as tourists dismiss the area as no go zone. The fact is
referring to the Middle East as a hotspot of conflict is like saying the UK is
a war zone based on the events affecting East Ukraine. The area is safe as long
as you remain vigilant and monitor news headlines you will be fine. As far as
tourism goes travelling on a budget is difficult but possible as long as you
are willing to haggle to no end. That being said the culturally enriching
experience of the Middle East is not to be missed and by far the most
interesting portion of the globe I have travelled. If you have a thick skin and
can deal with the tourist scams then this is the region is for you, if you don’t
go to Europe or the States. If you are brave enough to venture to the region
you will unlock yourself to an ancient and communal culture which hosts some of
the most truly remarkable human monuments that we as a species have ever
created and probably ever will create. For a truly humbling human experience, which
leaves you longing for a simpler and more authentic lifestyle, travel to the
region and it is guaranteed not disappoint.
Great read !!
ReplyDeleteAsh xoxo